The Umri, which is among the top 5 hotels in Lansdowne, takes its name from the small remote village of Umari Khal. The charming, fully-staffed homestay is tucked away on a hill, about 15 km before the old Cantonment town of Lansdowne. The house opens onto a large deck that begs you to laze there with a drink in hand.
This is a bibliophile’s paradise. Books line the shelves in every room. There are crime novels as well as children’s books, literary fiction, thrillers and classics stacked across the house. For those who’d rather listen to music, there are sound systems, on both floors, waiting to be switched on.
The beautiful two-bedroom apartment on the ground floor has a private living room with sofas that you can sink into as you gaze out at the gorgeous view outside. The apartment also has a handy dining room and a well-equipped kitchenette. The first floor has two spacious bedrooms and a shared sitting and dining space that opens onto a balcony that offers stunning views of the surrounding hills and forests and the bluest of skies.
You also see the path that leads from the house to a giant banyan tree. Locals see this banyan as a magical wishing tree that makes dreams come true. They come to the spot to pray deeply and tie a holy thread or a bell to its roots. The Umri’s visitors are welcome to do the same; who knows, the gods may smile kindly on you and make your wish come true too.
The homestay is manned by the Three Musketeers: Manoj, who manages the place super-efficiently, the extremely-talented chef Harish who really has magic hands, and the ever-smiling Sanjay, who keeps the house spotlessly clean. Between the three of them, they keep the homestay looking cosy and comfortable and ply every visitor with personal attention.
Just say the word and they will arrange a picnic under the pines nearby, or set up a lunch on the small rise above The Umri or organise a candlelight dinner for two on the terrace. They can also set up a paddle pool for the kids on the deck by day and light you a crackling bonfire when night falls.
The food is mainly Indian, conjured up by the talented Harish. But he can do Chinese too, if that’s what you prefer. In addition to the menu regulars, do try his salads, soups, cheesy French toast, chicken/ vegetable pagodas and, of course, the Garhwali thali, made with loving care by the chef who is immensely proud of his heritage.
Those looking to enjoy the great outdoors—and this is truly green and gorgeous territory—can go trekking on the many trails that ring the house. You can walk up to Lansdowne along the old British road or walk down to the river or ask for a jeep to visit Corbett Park, which is just 40 km away.
For those who only want to unwind and relax far, far away from the madding crowd, The Umri is the perfect destination. Because, here the silence of the hills is broken only by birdsong and whistling winds. Come to The Umri if you want to let fresh, clean air invigorate and rejuvenate you. At night, light a bonfire and sit on the deck, watching the unsullied cobalt sky above get slowly powdered with stardust. Life doesn’t get more magical than that.
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